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CSVPA study journey

Month

January 2017

Research | suit

 

Male Scottish Clothing

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Men’s highland dress includes a kilt (or trews) of his clan tartan, along with either a tartan full plaid, fly plaid, or short belted plaid. Accessories may include a belt, sporran, sgian dubh, tartan socks, garters, kilt pins and clan badges.

16 century menswear

earl-southampton-1600.large.jpg58b4ca5c018519a41c92d72ed62bb36b.jpg91c3f758afb8ba1048bf015bcc3887a0.jpgIn the first half of the 16th century men wore  a short and wide silhouette and the jacket was striking. This was broad, reaching to the knees and had very large sleeves to elbow height. The trousers reaching to the knees, which they wore stockings and  hats that were equipped with springs.

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1920s

After the First World War, the lounge suit, with its shorter jacket, began replacing the frock coat for everyday and business dress. People had an effect with straight-leg trousers worn high-waisted with double-breasted waistcoats.

 

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Evaluation | Part of body

When I startedto do this project, I was confused about choosing which part of body as my choice. I thought about a lot of, on second thought, ear is not very important when we thought about the facial feather, almost people will think about the eyes is the first thing we recall, besides, ear is not in the middle of the face, it is in the side of the face, so sometimes we don’t pay attention to person’s ear, however in the fashion show, the ear is also a very important part to show the detail of the design. Additionally, different people have different shape of ear, also animal’s ears are different, so I search some information about ears. 

For example, the different animals also have different shapes of ear, something’s shape is similar to the ear like the cute body in the amniotic fluid, the shape looks like the ear. I develop the idea using different material to show the ears. Ear modification and broccoli ear are two things I think related to the ear, so I did a mood borad and drew some painings. I also got some primary research, I took several photo about the ears which are my friend’s ears and I used the different media to draw them. In the life drawing lessons, I also drew some ears. I went to the Barbican exhibition, it’s a really cool exhibition, there are a lot of exaggerated clothing and gave me a range of ideas about the design, I drew some drafts and write some information about the history or background about the garment, besides after I came back, I drew a painting which is inspired by one of them. It’s a geometric ear and I put the plastic material to show the reflection. 

I search some collection which related to the topic- exaggerated shape. I really like the collection which is from the Westminster graduation show, I try to find some information about the collection, but there are no more information. So I thought about some artists who related to the collection. I don’t know it is the real inspiration for designers, however I just wrote something that I real thought. 

After research, I started to do some drapings, I tryed to use several ears and putted them toghther. I used the shape of animals’ ear and geometric figure, however I think some shape I don’t really like, I still keep them here, just to show I used the idea from the research. I associate with the ear modification and broccoli ear, so I used the bubble to show the feather about the broccoli ear.  Besides, I thought about something outside the ear, but also related to the ear. The sound wave we can’t see, but nowadays there are many way to show the sound wave which use the figure, so I search some information about this and follow the shape to make a sculpture. I used the hard papar and the wire to fix the shape. 

In conclusion, the project extended my view and I thought a lot of exaggerated silhouettes. 

Research | White Fabric

I do a mood board which shows the different texture of the fabric. The texture of leather are hard, and we can see some grain of the fabric, it usually is used to make the silhouettes. The silk is very different from the leather, it is very soft and lithe. Knitting wool usually is used to make sweater and textile. Cotton is a very normal fabric and is used in garments widely, space cotton is a new type of the cotton, is different from the traditional cotton, it is still soft and comfortable to wear, but it also can hold the shape very will. Jeans also a type of fabric I really like, it is hard but not too much, some type of jeans are elastic.

 

Draping & Final piece

There are some draping I made and I drew them using different media. For example, I used the marker pen , soft pastels, acrylic point, water colour and ink. The draping I follow the idea which is my drawing, we can see I used the the ear ‘s shape of the animal and fairy. Besides, I made some shape which looks like the ear modification and broccoli ear. 
My final piece is about the sonic wave, we can hear the sound because of the sonic wave, and we all know we can’t see them appearance of the sound, but some scientist discovery the photo can show the sonic wave which is the appearance of  music, so I imitate the shape and made a sculpture using the paper,cotton and wire.

 

Presentation| The secret about fashion industry

Intro:

Before I start my presentation I have some question.

There are some question, could you tell me what do you think about this?

-Are you interesting in fashion ?

-Do you still think the fashion industry is a high threshold professional ?

-Do you know some information about the fashion weeks?

-Did you watch YouTube?

-Do you want to know some secret about fashion industry?

Slide02.jpgMy topic is about the secret about the fashion industry and I will tell your some information about the fashion industry, may you want to know. Nowadays many people like using social media to show their life, besides people prefer to watch photos and videos rather than read articles. YouTube already become a media to get some information and have fun, as well as Instagram. So I want to talk about the people who are the Youtuber or the fashion blogger. There are some youtubers and bloggers, who are willing to share their outfit and try on show on the Youtube. Some are very famous youtubers, maybe you already known about them.

Bloggers:

-Jenn ImSlide03.jpg

(photos from:https://www.instagram.com/imjennim/?hl=en)

(born September 22, 1990) is a Korean-American fashion and beauty vlogger, best known for her YouTube channel, ClothesEncounters.

Korean-American video blogging YouTuber who offers her viewers style musings, tutorials, and lifestyle advice on her channel ClothesEncounters, which has earned over 1.7 million subscribers.

Jenn Im has been vlogging since 2010. It started as a bit of fun with her friend Sarah and grew into something wildly successful. At 24 years old, Jenn has over a million subscribers to her channel, Clothes Encounters, which she now runs alone, and is the go-to source for all your questions about what high street garb to wear, how to wear it, where to shop, and, most importantly, how to be happy with and in yourself. Born and raised in LA, Jenn would always struggle to find her voice in class, but fast forward to today and she is fast becoming one of the leading voices of the digi generation.

(reference from:http://www.famousbirthdays.com/people/jenn-im.html)

Another youtuber who I really like is Sonya Esman.

-SONYA ESMAN

Slide04.jpg

(photos from:https://www.instagram.com/sonyaesman/?hl=en)

She joined the YouTube world in 2009 with a YouTube channel called thatsophiakid which she continued to use after creating her classisinternal channel in February of 2011.

Fashion, occasional makeup and daily life vlogger who contributes to Conde Nast’s Canadian platform Fashionation TV. Her best known YouTube channel, classisinternal, has accumulated over 1.7 million subscribers.

(reference from:http://www.famousbirthdays.com/people/sonya-esman.html)

why is she so popular?

-Warm, candid,

-Jenn treats her audience as if she would her old friends  she laughs with them, introduces them to her boyfriend and shares with them intimate details about her life

-it is this sense of realness and authenticity that viewers find so appealing.

-Bored of Photoshopped perfection, fashion’s unrealistic ideals of beauty

However, where there are fans there will always be haters, and for some reason vloggers seem to attract a lot, especially from those traditionalists who value fashion for its exclusivity and elitism. Weighing up both arguments we caught up with the fashion vlogger to talk trolls, travel and female empowerment.

Another blogger who is very famous is Chiara Ferragni.

-Chiara Ferragni

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(photos from:https://www.instagram.com/chiaraferragni/)

An Italian business woman and a ‘famous’ fashion influencer on social media. She is a blogger and fashion designer, also an ex-law student from a small town near Milan. As a blogger, she is known as The Blonde Salad, which is the name of both her fashion blog and her first published book.

Slide07.jpgStarted The Blonde Salad blog in 2009, documenting her camera-ready personal style, full of prints, blowdried hair and kooky cross-eyed faces.Seven years later, she has 7.3 million followers on Instagram, 1.2m likes on Facebook and more than 14m page views per month on her website. The latter now handily also functions as a shop selling everything from suitcases to stilettos designed by Ferragni. There’s also Chiara Ferragni Collection, a shoe brand with flats and boots covered with her signature eye logo.

HOW SHE BECOME FAMOUS AND HOW SHE EARN MONEY ?

Slide09.jpgFerragni’s followers certainly know a lot about her life, or the edited version of it anyway. She posts about six times a day on her personal account – almost all selfies of a life lived in party dresses or pyjamas accessorised with suitcases or beanies. Each one, on average, is liked approximately 80,000 times.

She has so many follower on the social media, so there is a good platform, many brands want to use her popularity to sell the goods. The brands send the goods for her, she try on the clothing and post the photos on the social media, also tag the brand’s name, there are millions of people will see those photos and give the thumbs-up, it’s a good way to promote  product. She can make a packet out of it. Additionally, she set up her own brand,Chiara Ferragni. She also use the social media to promote, we can see the eyes pattern everywhere in her photos.

(reference from:https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/nov/29/chiara-farragni-blogger-the-blonde-salad-socia-media-style-posts-multi-million-pound-business)

After we watched the beautiful photos and know something about the fashion blogger and youtubers.We know they usually took a range of pictures, travel around the world,  someone even was invited to attend the high-end show. So do you want to be a fashion blogger or youtubers?

Can anyone be a blogger or vlogger?


Technically anyone can be a blogger or vlogger, but if you want a wider reach you definitely have to have a good work ethic. Being consistent and coming up with fresh ideas every week is a commitment you’ll have to take.

What makes you stand out from all other vloggers?

Let your viewers feel like they’re actually there with you.For example, if you travel to somewhere, recorded the detail about the life like what you did and showed you subscribers what I wore there.

Nowadays many fashion blogger willing to take part in the fashion week. It’s a good way to  promote themselves, because in the fashion weeks, there are a range of media like magazines and websites reporting the news, they will take photos of them, some will give a short introduce, it’s a good way to get exposure rate. So do you know what is fashion weeks? what different between the four major fashion weeks?

Fashion week 

A fashion week is a fashion industry event, lasting approximately one week, wherein fashion designers, brands or “houses” display their latest collections in runway shows to buyers and the media. These events influence trends for the current and upcoming seasons.The most prominent fashion weeks are held in the fashion capitals of the world, the “Big Four” receiving the majority of press coverage being New York, London, Milan, and Paris.The concept of fashion week began in Paris, when marketers would hire women to wear couture items in public places, from racetracks to salons.

Four fashion week two times a year, divided into autumn and winter fashion week (February and March) and spring and summer fashion week (September and early October) two parts, each time in about a month held more than 300 fashion Conference. Specific time is not necessarily, but are released during this period.

(reference from:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fashion_week)

What is the different between the four fashion weeks ?

NEW YORK FASHION WEEKSlide12.jpg

Every year in New York organized by the International Fashion Week, in the fashion industry has the supreme status, designers, brand names, supermodel, star and magnificent neon shirt plumage together to interweave a luxury fashion event.

LONDON FASHION WEEKSlide13.jpg

One of the world’s four major fashion shows in London fashion show may not be as good as Paris and New York fashion show, but it is an alternative to the concept of fashion design and exotic form of display is known. Some “fancy dress” with ingenuity of the way presented to the attendees to bring surprises.

PARIS FASHION WEEKSlide14.jpg

Paris, France, known as “the center of the clothing center.” Internationally recognized as the top-level clothing brand design and marketing of most of the headquarters are located in Paris. Information from here is the international trend of the vane, not only to lead the French textile and garment industry trends, and lead the international fashion trend.

MILAN FASHION WEEKSlide15.jpg

Milan is Italy has a long history of cultural city, was the largest city in Italy. Milan is one of the world’s fashion industry center, its fashion world-renowned. Italy is a veteran of the textile and apparel production power and power, the Italian textile and garment industry products with its perfect and sophisticated design and superb post-processing world-renowned, especially Italian men and women’s top fashion brand-name products and leather clothes, shoes, purses, etc. Leather products in the world textile industry occupies an important position.

book reference :20th Century Fashion,John Peacock, 1993, Tames and Hudson

 

Primary Research | went to Barbican Museum 

On the weekend, I went to the Barbican Museum to saw the exhibition of The Vulgar (Fashion Redifined). The exhibition don’t allow to take photos, so I writed down some information and drew a few designe which I really interesting. At first, the huge dress catched me attention, it’s the style in mid-18 century, people like the exaggerated dress, the court dress have bustle to hold the shape. Nowadays people sometimes use the bustle to design the wedding dress or dinner skirt. Besides,  I saw Iris Van Herpen’s collection, the fabric was used which is very special, he used the reflection fabric,which means in different direction we can saw different colour, and it used the geometric drawing, so I drew a ear of geometric pattern which is using this idea and I used some plastic triangle piece to show my idea which is related to the reflection fabric. Additionally, I really like the John Galliano’s dress in spring/summer 2009, the shape of the sleeve attracted my attention, it looks like a bud, also there are some detail, such as the beautiful pattern and using special fabric to decorate it.Edit

Part of body | ear 

I want to choose the part of body which is the ear, the reason why I choose the ear it’s because when we think about the facial feature,the eyes is the first thing we recall, besides, ear is not in the middle of the face, it is in the side of the face, so sometimes we don’t pay attention to person’s ear, however in the fashion show, the ear is also a very important part to show the detail of the design.

I think ears not only can be a person and animal also have ears, many the shape of the  animals’ ear are different, this is one of my idea about the ear. I drew the rabbit’s ear and the dog’s ear. There is a story about my drawing, one day I saw a photo which a dog hurt it ear and the blood can’t stop, I feel so fearsome and make me heart ache to see it, so I drew some ear which is blooding.

A lot of time I find the idea when I talked to someone, once I talked to my sister, she is pregnant and showed the photo to my which is my cute nephew, I saw the cute body in the amniotic fluid and the shape looks like the ear, so I follow the idea and draw something.

Additionally, I took some photo about the ear which are my friends’ ear and drew them down. On the life drawing class, I also draw some ears.There are some ideas about the ear and I use the different material to make some piece.

Besides, I think about the broccoli ears and ear modification, these ears are different from the normal person’s ear. Maybe someone want to change the shape of the ear to the fairy’s ear,also because of the accident or the fighting someone’s ear got hurt. I think the shape are interesting, so I made a mood board and drew some ears.

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I also sewed side of head, I want to show the idea is about embroidery. Because ear have a range of side, also when we saw ear in different direction, we will see different shape and colour tone, so I use the element which is embroidery to show this idea. I also make a sample.

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This idea is about sound wave, I think sound wave is a very soft stuff, because we can’t see the sound wave actually, but we can hear that. In my opinion I think when I hear the sound,  it will not stronger than what I see, so I chose the knitting piece to show the sound wave, we know the yarn is very soft and elastic. I make a collage is about a ear how to hear the sound, I use the fabric and knitting piece, also use sewing machine to make some lines to the sound can spread very wild.

Research | fashion designers-toni Ilan,Viktor & Rolf

2015 Westminster fashion design graduates

Influenced by Constructivist Russian artists including El Lissitsky, Alexander Rodchenko and Vladimir Tatlin, Charlotte Scott formed her menswear collection from abstract shapes of fabrics in a range of weights and colours.

In my opinion, he use the 3D shapes and cubes with stripes and shadow to create the illusion of the shapes appearing 3D. It’s quite interesting and make people feel there is a illusion, which is a 3D shape yet actually being completely flat pieces. He chose to use muted-down primary colours because these are the colours that are often used in the graphic design work of Rodchenko, and many other artists during this time. In his collection, it’s playful but not appear childish.

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Piet Mondrian

Mondrian’s work was naturalistic—incorporating successive on influences of academic landscape and still-life painting, Dutch Impressionism, and Symbolism. An early example of Mondrian’s pure geometric abstraction, this painting dates from his involvement with the De Stijl group.The strict use of horizontal and vertical lines and primary colours with black and grey is characteristic of De Stijl.
I think it’s related to this collection, the colour which the designer chose is similar to the painting. The designer also use the primary colours and geometric pattern, besides, she combine the cube with the shadow.

http://www.tate.org.uk/art/artworks/mondrian-no-vi-composition-no-ii-t00915

 Wassily Kandinsky

One of the pioneers of abstract modern art, Wassily Kandinsky exploited the evocative interrelation between color and form to create an aesthetic experience that engaged the sight, sound, and emotions of the public. By combining aspects of all three movements, he arrived at the flat planes of color and the clear, linear quality seen in this work. Form, as opposed to color, structured the painting in a dynamic balance that pulses throughout the canvas.

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http://www.phaidon.com/agenda/art/articles/2014/december/16/how-kandinsky-helped-create-abstract-art/

Composition VIII 

The rational, geometric order of Composition VIII is a polar opposite of the operatic composition of Composition VII (1913). By combining aspects of all three movements, he arrived at the flat planes of color and the clear, linear quality seen in this work. Form, as opposed to color, structured the painting in a dynamic balance that pulses throughout the canvas. This work is an expression of Kandinsky’s clarified ideas about modern, non-objective art, particularly the significance of shapes like triangles, circles, and the checkerboard.

There are another artist who related to this collection. We can see in the painting, he paint non-figurative forms, it’s really abstract, he just used geometric figure and line. In the collection,Charlotte Scott also just use the geometric figure and make them look like 3D.

 

Viktor & Rolf Couture Spring 2016

This collection just used the white fabric, but there are a range of 3D shape on it and it is enough hard to hold the shape, which are very exaggerated and odd, some piece even cover the whole face and body, also those shape are not follow the figure. The pattern on the garment is abstract and asymmetrical, for instance, some face only have one eyes or this should be the eyes, but the mouth. I search some information about the background when the designer create the garment, the collection reached fever pitch with a piqué vision of Guernica. We can see there are many element is similar to the painting Guernica. 

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Pablo Picasso, Guernica, 1937, oil on canvas, 349 cm × 776 cm. (Museo Reina Sofia, Madrid)

https://www.khanacademy.org/humanities/art-1010/early-abstraction/cubism/a/picasso-guernica

 

Roni Ilan (Central Saint Martins Ba Autumn/Winter 2013 Ready-To-Wear Collection)

Because this is a graduate show, so I can’t find more information about the collection and designer, so there are some opinion in my mind. I like the pattern in the garment, when I first time saw those pattern, it make me think about the Picasso’s painting, it’s very abstract. White is the bace colour and the black thick line was used a lot. She used very exaggerated shape, for example, the wide shoulder is the point in my opinion, and the whole design appear oversize.Also we can see, she use the gear form and wave line around the sleeves. Besides, She used the leather which is a very hard fabric, it’s good to hold shape.

Pablo Picasso 

the-kiss.jpg5fc94f54df98d50bfae9b1807f3c5272.jpg8576c5cc5430da3cbe1f24f3cc62f66d.jpg41ac3943ff340033a4fc1d0ea6e66320.jpg

http://www.pablopicasso.org/the-kiss.jsp

There are several painting by Picasso. We can see his work which looks like very crazy and odd, those are portrait yet we feel they are not actually the human being’s face, it’s so abstract. He changed the facial features a lot and used exaggerated way to draw the facial features. Besides, it’s very colourful in his work. Moving to the collection of  Roni Ilan, he draw the pattern which is very abstract face in the garment, it is very similar to the Picasso’s painting.

 

Research | Artists-Masao Kinoshita

 

Masao Kinoshita

Japanese sculptor Masao Kinoshita is prolific in a variety of media — wood, clay, plaster, bronze, stone. His works take an interest in the extreme physical feats of the human anatomy and add to these feats with fantastical details culled from folklore, mythology and religion. A prominent series in Konishita’s body of work is his muscle sculpture series, which exposes what lies beneath a creature’s skin. The sculpture series displays the intricacies of our flesh.

Kinoshita goes beyond straightforward human or animal subjects, presenting multiple-limbed creatures (like his interpretation of the Hindu deity Ganesh) contorted in various poses, flexing for the audience like body builders at a pageant. Some of his works keep the skin intact, like his yoga sculptures, which conjure up impossible achievements of flexibility and strength. The yoga sculptures take inspiration from centuries-old Southeast Asian art from the region where the now-widespread practice first evolved. Our musculature makes existence as we know it possible, but Kinoshita thinks beyond the limitations of the body to create finely-tuned works that alienate us from what we often take for granted.

I inspired from this sculpture work, the muscle behind our flesh, it’s intricate and complex, so I want to use this idea which is beyond the visible body, there are many interesting different shape. When I control the ear movement with muscle, it is associated with the head and neck, so the shape will exchange a lot. Besides, I relate it to not only the human being also the animal, there are many different shapes of ears and the distribution of muscle is different. 

(http://hifructose.com/2014/06/25/masao-kinoshitas-sculptures-play-with-exaggerated-anatomy/)

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